In the end, though, I am attempting to create a brand new musical instrument, which has much different sonic qualities than what came out of the box, specifically by varying the amount of "gunk" in the grooves and from sanding, it means the cymbal has much more complexity, wash, dryness, and variation of playing around the cymbal (since also my sanding was not perfect all around). The patina process will not alter the lathing grooves at all actually, they'll simply "fill" some of them like an aged cymbal would have. You are right that the micro-lathing ridges may be a little compromised, but most of them should still be in tact. In my case, the cymbal was a bit new, so it needed some extra sanding, but something that's a couple years old may do with just a bit of cleaning and applying the patina. Yeah, I mean I wouldn't do it to something like a vintage cymbal that's already aged or something that's already unfinished (like that Byzance). You can do this on the whole cymbal to get that colour if you wish. You can see the center of it I used a little more steel wool rubbing. STEP 5: Rinse with water and let air dry. If you take too much off, you can put the cymbal back in for repeated treatments, which will actually give it a more "antiqued" look. STEP 4: Use the steel wool on the cymbal until you are satisfied with your desired color. It should begin to darken and eventually turn black. Combine the water and LOS and submerge the cymbal completely. A weaker solution gives you more control. ![]() This is because a strong solution will cause the cymbal to patina faster, but will have more potential to flake off. STEP 3: Read the directions for the liver of sulfur and use more water than necessary. I did this all in my bathtub, so it made it really easy. From this point on, use latex gloves to handle the cymbal. This step is necessary because the finger oils and dirt will resist the chemical reaction. ![]() STEP 2: Wash the cymbal in a solution of dish soap, and can add ammonia to help. FYI, this will likely take off the labels. STEP 1: Use a rough grit sandpaper (I used 60 grit) and steel wool to sand off the protective layer from both the top and bottom. In general, the bright tinny thing doesn't do it for me.ġ-2 bottles of liver of sulfur, or 1 can rock form.Ĭontainer big enough to submerge entire cymbal (I used bathtub) I recently acquired this Paiste Alpha 18'' medium crash for only $20, but I needed something to go with my Byzance dark ride and my heavily used Avedis crash. There are two kinds, ones that will turn it black/brown and ones that will turn it green/blue. What you are doing is allowing the bronze to undergo a chemical reaction in which it darkens. And in general, brilliant finishes have this protective layer that resists aging, so I wanted to patina it to speed it up. I wanted to "age" the cymbal so that I don't necessarily have to wait for the dirt and fingerprints to start having an effect. ![]() They work wonderfully on cheaper cymbals. I can't attest to those methods, but this WILL definitely work and give a cool and even look, not necessarily splotchy like the salt method. ![]() I've heard of people using the salt, lemon juice, burying for 8 months. My impetus for joining this forum was there was very little info and misinformation in general out there for darkening/drying cymbals (both in sound and in look), so I'd like to share with you some things.
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